Raidermacher care

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At the end of the 18th century, the Dutch scientist Jacob Cornelius Matteus Radermacher gave a description of the plant he discovered in Southeast Asia, on the island of Java.

Description

Radermacher belongs to the Bignoniev family. This is an unpretentious deciduous plant, capable of reaching a height of 1.5 m with proper care (grows up to 40 m in nature). Florists are especially appreciated for its rich crown. Evergreen, radermacher has a very beautiful, rich green glossy foliage, which reach 30 cm in length. At home, it practically does not bloom. But in nature, large yellow bells appear on it. This shrub with curly shoots is quite simple to give the necessary shape, which is why they love to use it in decorative landscaping.

Types for breeding (cultivation) at home

Breeding a Chinese chrysalis (one of the many names of the radermacher) is quite simple. However, of all its species, only one is adapted to room conditions: the Chinese radermacher. The blueberry, as it is called in another way, is an evergreen shrub. At home, it is recommended to artificially restrain its growth (prune), thereby avoiding baldness of the bush. Plain, emerald, lanceolate leaves, it is they who make her the favorite of most gardeners. Chinese blueberry or ruddermacher

Now they are actively trying to "cultivate" another species, the fiery red radermacher, which is as beautiful as her cousin.

Prerequisites for room care

Radermacher is unpretentious, and at home care will not require much effort.

Conditions

Winter

Spring / Autumn

Summer

Location and LightingWarm room, no drafts. It is necessary to connect artificial lighting (fluorescent lamps, phytolamps).A warm room, sharp changes in temperature should not be allowed. Connect artificial lighting as needed (daylight should be at least 12 hours).You can keep on the balcony, porch, if the climate allows permissible planting in open ground. Avoid direct sunlight (burns form on the leaves).
TemperatureNot lower than +15 degrees Celsius.Optimum + 20- + 25 degrees, but not lower than +15 (at +14 degrees, the plant may die).Optimum + 20-25 degrees.
Humidity and wateringModerate watering, spraying (leaves do not like rubbing). The water should be soft (if water from the tap, it is required that it has previously settled for 24 hours at room temperature).Water once every 2-3 days, spraying, do not wipe the leaves.Do not allow the soil to dry out. Radermacher does not like severe waterlogging and does not tolerate drought. Therefore, water as necessary, at least 2-3 times a week. Water should be soft. Spray. In extreme heat, you can make a warm shower.
Top dressingOnce or twice a month. If the plant is not at rest.Once or twice a month. Fertilizers with nitrogen in spring and with potassium and phosphorus in autumn.Once or twice a month.

Landing and Transplant Tips

The optimal period for a flower transplant is the first half of March. Young plants are recommended to be replanted annually, adults (over 5 years) - every two to three years. The signal for the transplant is the roots that emerged from the drainage hole.

When choosing a pot, it is advised to focus on the diameter of the previous one (the new pot should be the most by 2-3 cm). Do not give the plant too much room. A Chinese chrysalis will not grow until the roots fill a new space. This is her property. It is also worth paying attention to the size of the drainage holes, they must be large enough so that the next transplant does not do much harm to the root system.

Of great importance for the radermacher is the soil. Therefore, you should carefully approach the choice of soil. Universal soil or soil for citrus palms is well suited.

The transplant process is as follows:

  • at the bottom of the pot - drainage (3 cm will be enough);
  • pour soil about a third;
  • moisten the soil;
  • take a plant with a lump of earth;
  • we cut dry roots and tops;
  • sprinkle slices with chalk (activated carbon can be used);
  • do not touch for several hours;
  • put in a new pot;
  • add soil;
  • ram carefully;
  • moisturize.

Breeding

Emerald tree can be propagated in three ways:

  • Cuttings - you can take flowers at least three years old. Cuttings are the upper parts of shoots of approximately 8-12 cm, with nodules of nascent leaves. It is important that they show no signs of illness. Cuttings are either placed in water or rooted in the ground.
  • Air layers - an adult plant with strong woody branches is taken. A shallow cut in the ring is made on the branch. The notch is “wrapped” in a layer of wet moss and tightly covered with polyethylene. The trunk is separated when the newly formed roots reach a length of at least 5 cm.
  • Seeds are not very popular. In some specialized stores you can find indoor ash seeds (another popular name). The seed is placed in a mixture of peat and sand (equal proportions) to a depth of 1 cm, covered with a jar on top to create a greenhouse effect. Periodically it is necessary to ventilate and water. Growing seedlings will take about two weeks.

Cropping, crown shaping

A plant can be formed in two ways: a bush and a tree. But this must be done, because the radermacher grows very quickly. The flower easily tolerates the pinch, so giving it the necessary shape is quite simple.

Twigs can not be broken, you will need a pruner or scissors. It is better not to remove more than 1/5 of the crown at a time.

To give the shape of a tree, throughout the life of the plant, extra side shoots should be removed, leaving the central trunk. To give it a bonsai style, twigs can be twisted, bent and weighted with the help of improvised tools until they become numb. From time to time, turn the pot so that the crown forms evenly.

Errors and their elimination

If you carefully observe the tree, then it itself will tell you what it lacks.

Symptom

Cause

Elimination method

Shoots are stretched.Lack of lighting.Compensate for the lack of light.
The tips of the leaves dry, their tone decreases.Lack of watering.Do not allow the topsoil to dry out and do not forget to spray the plant.
Leaflets become smaller and more dull.Lack of nutrients.Make top dressing.
The leaves turn yellow, the plant begins to drop them.Lack of light.Find a more suitable place with adequate lighting.

Mr. Summer resident warns: diseases and pests

  • Aphid. Small insects appear on the underside of the leaf. On the upper part, spots of dead leaf tissue form. It becomes unpleasant to the touch, sticky, as if a specific resin was released on it.
  • Mealybug. At the junction of the leaf and shoot whitish "cotton" spools are formed. The surface of the soil also becomes whitish.
  • Spider mite. The leaves are entangled in cobwebs. Dark spots are visible (traces of punctures).
  • Whitefly The leaves appear inherent in the plant silvery shade.
  • Shield. The underside of the leaf is covered with oval plaques. At the same time, a yellowish or reddish hue is formed around them.

Any disease is treatable. If the plant has suffered from a particular pest, measures must be taken in a timely manner. In specialized stores at an affordable price you can find the necessary preparations for each case.

Folk beliefs about the plant

If you want to achieve harmony, get a radermacher. According to popular belief, it not only brings harmony to the house where it lives, but also peace in the souls of people living in this house. This bush is able to protect its owners from damage or the evil eye, to take a hit on themselves. Maybe it's just superstitionOr maybe not.

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