Daffodils in a pot: planting and care

Daffodils are among the earliest flowers blooming in spring. Recognizable buds, consisting of 6 petals with a round crown in the center, adorn many garden plots, delighting everyone with a pleasant aroma and graceful beauty. They are quite unpretentious and in street conditions do not require either annual excavation or special maintenance. Growing these flowers in a pot will decorate any house or apartment, and will also allow you to get a fragrant bouquet not only in spring, but also in another period of the year.

Potted Varieties of Daffodil

The genus of daffodils belongs to the Amaryllis family and has more than 30 different species. Some of them adapt to room conditions better than others. The following are considered the most popular:

• Paper-like (Papyraceus) has up to 11 white flowers with a diameter of 3 cm each. They are collected on a single peduncle, growing 30-45 cm tall. This is the only variety that does not require cold treatment, and expels sprouts in the room after 2-6 weeks.
• Ziva (Ziva) with pale white small flowers located up to 10 pieces on one stem. The height varies depending on the variety, reaching 15-35 cm in miniature Paperwhite species, and 50 cm in Narcissus tazetta.
• Magnet (Magnet) has large single flowers of 12-14 cm each with a yellow crown and petals brightening to the ends. It grows in length to 40-50 cm, and is suitable for growing in containers during preliminary cold processing.

• Avalanche (Avalanche) is multi-flowered, that is, it has up to 10 buds arranged consecutively on one stem. Their rosette is golden, and the petals are white. Peduncle height reaches 30-45 cm.
• February Gold (Ferbruary Gold) is distinguished by yellow flowers 7.5 cm in diameter, located one on stems 30 cm high. Each of them has a terry core and pointed petals.
• Snowball grows 43 cm in height. The middle and perianth of white color make up a bud with a diameter of 8 cm. In the natural environment, flowers appear in May.

Florists also distinguish the varieties of Geranium, Verger, Erlichir and others suitable for apartments. They can be painted in different combinations of white, yellow or beige, have a regular or fringed core, a different number of perianth petals.

Bulb Selection

To get beautiful healthy flowers, it is worth taking care of the choice of material for planting. Seed is very rarely used for this, but the process of growing it is very long and laborious. In most cases, bulbs are taken for these purposes, separating the children and the mother's onions. When buying them from third parties, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

• larger material will give stronger shoots;
• hard-to-touch roots will ensure the healthy development of plants;
• soft and rotting areas may indicate the presence of a disease or improper storage;
• spots and damage provoke the multiplication of bulbous parasites.

Purchased bulbs for a long time should not be stored for a long time and it is best to plant them in containers as quickly as possible. If necessary, they can be placed in a darkened, dry and ventilated place for a while. Otherwise, there is a risk of infection with the fungus or premature rooting.

Container for planting

The roots of the daffodil need room for reproduction and growth, so pots or containers need at least 15-20 cm in width and 30-35 cm in height. For small varieties growing no higher than 15 cm, you can take smaller containers, but still with sufficient depth for rooting. You can’t overdo it in this matter, since an excess of space can harm the plant, delaying its bloom. The container can be ceramic or glass, wooden boxes are also suitable. Mandatory drainage in the bottom to remove excess moisture, it will prevent rotting onions.

Necessary soil

The soil for planting and transplanting can be dug in the garden plot or bought in a store. It should be soft, crumble in your hands and not stick together in clods. It is better to dilute ordinary earth with sand or dry clay, add sawdust, wood ash and mineral fertilizers. This will make it loose, provide air circulation and enrich it with additional elements.

Some people use certain techniques to quickly receive flowers, for example, so that you can give a bouquet for the holiday. To do this, they are planted in perlite or small stones, and watered abundantly. Onions have enough nutrients for the full development of the flower.

Conditions for growing a daffodil in a pot

This plant is one of the most unpretentious in content. But in order to obtain beautiful and fragrant buds, he should provide an environment that is as close to natural as possible. To do this, you need to adjust the temperature indicators, the illumination of the room and the humidity in it.

Planting a daffodil in a room

Bulb planting in the room is slightly different from the street. In particular, they will need cold treatment and distillation of the shoots in a specially created environment.

Landing time

You can plant daffodils in the soil at any time of the year, but many want to get blooms by a certain solemn date. Most often it is carried out in such terms:

• planting no later than mid-autumn allows you to get a bouquet for the new year;
• onions rooted in December-January will give flowering in the first spring days;
• landing in late March will provide flower stalks for the May holidays.

More specifically, the dates are determined by the description of the variety, each of which has different periods of emergence of seedlings.

The process of planting a daffodil in a pot

When planting onions in the soil, you should follow the step-by-step course of work:

• In the selected container, place a drainage consisting of 2-3 cm of crushed pebbles, pebbles or expanded clay. It provides an outflow of excess water and oxygen access to the roots. From above, pour the substrate almost to the edges of the pot.
• Place the onions in it, pushing the root down, leaving the distance between them. The upper part of each must peep out of the ground by at least a third. For a container of 9 cm in diameter, 3 onions of 1 cm are taken.
• Pour the soil with a small amount of water, which should not fall on the rhizomes. On top, you can mulch the soil with a loose layer of leaves or sawdust. Before emergence of seedlings, it should be regularly added, preventing their drying.
• After planting, put the pots in a darkened, dry place at a temperature of + 3 ... +9 ° C. If necessary, the container can be covered. Such difficulties are not required only for Paper-like and Ziva varieties, which can be left directly in the room.
• After germination of sprouts with a height of 5-7 cm, not earlier than in 1-3 months, they need adaptation to warm conditions. At the same time, put them in a room with diffused light at +10 ° C for the first 2-3 days, and then you can choose a constantly bright place at + 15 ... +18 ° C.

If done correctly, the first peduncles appear in 1-1.5 months. A more accurate flowering time can be determined by knowing the variety of planted flowers.

Potted Daffodil Care

Home care involves regular watering, fertilizing plants and pruning dry buds. They should be watered with settled water and only along the edges of the landing packaging or into the pallet. The frequency you need is different at each stage of growth:

• for the first time, the soil must be moistened immediately after planting;
• pour water 2 times a month during rooting;
• after transferring the pots to heat, make sure that the earth does not dry out;
• during flowering, an increase in humidity in the air and soil is required;
• with complete yellowing of the leaves, you need to stop watering.

From the beginning of the appearance of sprouts to flowering, daffodils need to be fed with fertilizers containing phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. It is worth carefully choosing the time and amount of dressing, so as not to harm the flowers:

• At the beginning of the growing season, when seedlings appear, use a liquid or water-soluble composition.
• Then mulch the topsoil, laying on it a thick layer of leaf humus or manure.
• The second time mineral fertilizing is introduced when buds appear on peduncles and the procedure is repeated every 2 weeks before they begin to bloom.
• After flowering, inject bone meal or granular substances into the soil, which will allow seedlings to be obtained in the second year.

In order for the flowering period to last longer, from the moment of opening the buds, it is necessary to provide coolness in the temperature range + 10 ... +12 ° C.

Daffodil care after flowering

Once the daffodils have faded, wilted flowers are pruned and the green stem is left untouched. The abundance of irrigation is reduced, and slow-acting fertilizers are introduced into the soil, which will be absorbed until the new growing season. Leaves and peduncles can be pruned under the root only after they turn yellow and finally dry. Use with clean scissors or a knife.

If the bulbs are not dug up, the container with them is rearranged in a cool place in the dark. The collected material is laid out in bags of cloth or paper. Next year, it can only be planted in an open area, and for the rooms it is worth taking the children away.

It is also worth sifting out rotten and damaged onions, immediately throwing them away. And the rest should provide a dry and dark storage room. Flowers from one bulb can be grown up to 3 times, and for further propagation it is better to use their children.

Mr. Dachnik warns: diseases and pests of daffodils

When growing flowers you can face many problems. Among them, the most common are:

• Fusarium infection occurs when abundant watering, an excess of ammonia fertilizers, and keeping the onions warm and damp. To prevent the disease, they need to ensure proper maintenance, and also treat with fungicides before each disembarkation. In the presence of disease, plants and bulbs are rejected and destroyed.
• A large daffodil fly lays eggs in the roots. Of these, larvae appear, feeding on the flesh of the onions and leading to their decay. To identify them, you need to press on the spine, it should not be pressed at the top. Contaminated material should be treated with karbofos or held for a couple of hours in a pan with hot water, maintaining the temperature in it not higher than +43 ° C.
• Bulbous aphids appear under dry scales and feed on rhizome juices. This softens it, makes the plant sluggish, impairs flowering. To eliminate the parasite, heat treatment in hot water is necessary, as is the case with a fly.
• Gray rot (botritiosis) affects the leaves, leaving silver and brown spots on them, then penetrates the rhizomes. Spores of the fungus develop when air is moistened. To fight 2 times a month, the infected areas are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid 1-1.5%, a solution of captan 0.5% or a copper-soap mixture (2 g of copper sulfate and 20 g of green soap). The roots are treated with foundationazole 0.2%.
• An onion tick lives in the soil and penetrates the bulb through damage. Plant growth is suspended, flowers and leaves wither. Damaged onions should be removed, healthy ones should be treated with heat.
• Nematodes feed on the juices of leaves and peduncles, of which passing into rhizomes. They fight it by heat treatment with water + 40 ... +50 ° C, in which the material is immersed for a while.

Infection often occurs due to insufficiently sanitized soil that is collected in the garden. In this case, sanitary treatment of the substrate is required. In addition, for the prevention of diseases of daffodils, the following rules should be followed:

• regularly loosen the ground and timely remove dry and sluggish leaves;
• prevent waterlogging of the soil by creating drainage and balanced watering;
• create optimal conditions for planting material, store it at a temperature not exceeding +10 ° C.

If all this is taken into account, many problems with growing daffodils can be avoided. And then the flowering windowsill will delight the eye for more than one day.

Watch the video: How to plant Daffodils bulbs in a pot or container - (May 2024).