The best way to grow roses on your own is to cuttings, which is preferable to produce in autumn rather than in spring. And to cope with a similar method can a person who does not have enough experience. While grafting roses requires not only certain skills, but also the accuracy of movements and the correct shape of the cut at the junction of the scion and stock. Let us consider step by step all the stages of this breeding process.
The advantage of autumn cuttings of roses
Most gardeners believe that autumn cuttings are preferable to spring. This is due primarily to the natural biological cycles of the plant.
- In autumn, the bushes are prepared for wintering, they are treated with insecticidal preparations, the excess shoots are removed and the stems are cut, from which the necessary cuttings are obtained.
- Saplings prepared in the autumn tolerate winter frosts, and even if they damage the aerial part, new shoots will come from underground sleeping buds.
- Reproduction in this way also helps in the fight against the formation of a wild root system: most rose bushes are initially grafted onto the dogrose, which, if improperly maintained, can absorb cultivars.
- Another advantage of this technique is that any bouquet bought in a store can become a source of beautiful roses for the garden.
The timing of the cuttings of roses in autumn
The timing of the opinion of experienced gardeners diverges. Some believe that it is better to cook shoots in late September - early October before the first real frosts. Others recommend waiting until the night temperature drops to -1 ... -3 ° С, while the daytime temperature will be positive.
It is important to focus on the climate of your region. For central Russia, it is better to cuttings in October, for Siberia and the Urals - in mid-September and early October, in the southern regions - in late October and early November.
What roses can be propagated with the help of autumn rooting of cuttings
Not all roses are suitable for growing by cuttings. The most difficult to take root:
- park (Abraham Derby, Gardener's Friend, Fallstaff, Ballerina);
- remontant (Georg Arend, Georg Dixon, Paul Neuron, Ulrich Brucknerfis);
- hybrid tea cultures (La France, Per Gunt, Alexander, Prima Ballerina).
They are recommended to be vaccinated.
The following varieties are best propagated by cuttings:
- polyanthus (Fairyland, Lady Reading, Red Ballerina, Orange Triumph);
- miniature (Catherine Deneuve, Princess de Monaco, Jardin de Bagatelle, Marcel Palogl);
- semi-planar and climbing (Baltimore Belle, Bobby James, Golden Wings, Dortmund, Mermaid);
- roses from the Rambler group (Excelsia, Super Excelsia);
- flowers from the class of floribunda (Iceberg, Brothers Grimm, Rosalind, Sangria).
Cutting rose cuttings in autumn
Before cutting the cuttings, it is necessary to prepare the tool - it must be sharp. After sharpening, it is wiped with alcohol and treated with boiling water.
For successful rooting, you should choose healthy plants with well-ripened shoots, 4-5 mm thick and cut them off. Divide the obtained processes into three or four parts so that 3-5 formed kidneys are preserved on each sample.
In order not to get confused later on which part to plant the chubuck, it is recommended that the upper sections be made straight 3 cm above the first kidney, and the lower ones at an angle immediately below the last kidney.
If you plan to root the sprouts immediately, then part of the leaves is left on them. If the cuttings are laid in storage, then the leaves are completely removed.
Planting cuttings of roses in the fall in the ground
Autumn shoots are recommended to be immediately planted in a permanent place. In this case, they will not need to be transplanted and roses will take root better.
The following landing procedure is recommended:
- In advance, dig holes or a furrow for planting about 30 cm deep and fill two-thirds of the grass and rotted compost.
- The lower part of the workpieces is treated with Kornevin or other root-forming substance.
- Chubuki planted at an angle of 450, leaving one or two buds above the surface of the earth.
- Plantings are abundantly shed with water. To prevent them from freezing, they are covered on top with either plastic bottles or glass jars. To circulate air in a plastic dish, several holes are made, and small bars are placed under the cans to allow air to enter. From above, cover the earth around the dishes with any agromaterial and sprinkle with foliage or straw.
Planting cuttings in the fall at home
If for some reason it was not possible to plant the cuttings in open ground or a greenhouse in the country, then they can be successfully rooted at home. For this, ordinary flower pots or containers for seedlings are suitable.
Soil is prepared according to all the rules: drainage is placed down, sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil, one third of which is sand. Cuttings are planted in containers at an angle, as in summer cottages.
From above, seedlings are covered with either plastic bottles or glass jars. Periodically ventilate and water moderately. In severe frosts they are transferred to a warmer room. With the establishment of warm spring weather, they are transplanted to beds and flower beds.
Mr. Dachnik advises: how to keep rose cuttings in the winter before spring planting in the basement, in the garden
You can save cuttings without planting in the ground. If there is a basement or cellar in which a constant temperature of + 2 ... +3 ° С and humidity of not more than 70% is maintained in winter, then the prepared shoots will perfectly winter there until spring. They are wrapped from below with 3-4 layers of burlap or other natural fabric, moistened with water and wrapped with cellophane. Once a week, check the condition of the burlap, when it is dried, it is sprayed. As soon as warm days come, the material is unwound and checked to see if the plant has let the roots go. With proper care, this is bound to happen. In this case, the Chubuki are planted at their summer cottage using conventional technology.
Experienced gardeners are able to protect young roses without a cellar, and without greenhouse conditions, right in the garden.
To do this, choose a place on a hill so that in the spring it does not flood. They dig a trench up to 30 cm deep. Its length depends on how many chubuk there are, the distance between them inside the trench should be at least 8 cm, and the width should be 5-10 cm longer than the seedlings. That is, if there are 10 cuttings of 25 cm each, then the length will be 80 cm and the width 35 cm.
A layer of straw or peat is laid at the bottom of the trench, all leaves are removed from the cuttings and laid transversely on the straw. Top is covered with any agromaterial, sprinkled with a layer of garden soil and mulched with foliage and spruce branches. It is better to outline the boundaries of the trench with pegs so as not to look for seedlings in the spring. As soon as the snow falls, it is thrown on top of the mulch and rammed. This creates a natural mini-cellar.
In the spring, either a greenhouse or a permanent flowerbed is first prepared, and only then they get the cuttings from the trench and root them.
