The black currant of the Yadrenaya variety immediately attracts attention with the record size of berries, which reach two centimeters in diameter, and the specific currant aroma. Due to its resistance to heat and frost, the variety is widespread not only in its native Western Siberia, but also in the European part of the country.
Kernel - Altai variety of large-fruited black currant
The Yadrenaya variety was created by breeders of Gorno-Altaysk at the end of the last century and immediately became a sensation among gardeners due to the outstanding size of the berries. Quickly spread throughout Russia and neighboring countries, it is still considered one of the largest fruit currants of black currant.
Kernel - a large-fruited and productive variety of black currant
Mountain Altai is characterized by a sharply continental climate with severe frosty winters and arid summers. Therefore, Kernel is better than many other varieties of blackcurrant survives in hot and dry southern areas. It grows well in northern gardens. However, outstanding harvests of 5-6 kg per bush, as well as record two-centimeter berries, occur only in native Altai and in the neighboring regions of Siberia with currant.
Large berries of Yadrenoy currant immediately attract attention
Vigorous - a mid-ripening variety with slightly elongated ripening berries. The bushes are medium spread, with moderate growth strength, not prone to thickening. The leaves are five-lobed, shiny, not pubescent, dark green, wrinkled. The flowers are pinkish green. In each brush from 6 to 12 large enough berries are tied. The average weight is 3 g, individual specimens reach 5-6 g. The berries are black, with numerous large seeds and dense thick skin, very fragrant. Taste from sour to sweet and sour. The transportability of berries is low. They are stored even in the refrigerator for no more than three days. The main use of the crop is freezing and processing for jam and "raw jam" (currants mashed with sugar). When canned, the acidic aromatic berries of Yadrena are well mixed with fresh sweet fruits of the berry, ripening at the same time, gooseberries, and early apple varieties.
Fragrant young leaves of blackcurrant can be used as a flavoring seasoning for brewing tea, salting vegetables and mushrooms.
From sour aromatic berries of currant it turns out a wonderful jam
Variety characteristics: pros and cons - table
| Advantages | disadvantages |
| Fertility and productivity | Uneven ripening |
| High Vitamin Fragrant Berries | Low mobility |
| High self-fertility | Sour taste of berries, thick skin, large seeds |
| Resistance to heat and frost | The fragility of the bushes |
Landing Features
In nature, blackcurrant grows along the banks of forest rivers and lakes, at the bottom of ravines with streams flowing in the spring, but never found in swamps. Therefore, in waterlogged wetlands, drainage ditches are arranged or currants are planted on small knolls. It cannot grow on saline soils and on too acidic ones. With an acidity below 5.5, the site is preliminarily calcified with dolomite flour, 200-300 g per 1 m2 digging or plowing.
In the north, currants should be planted in open sunny places. In hot and dry southern regions, it feels better in partial shade and even on the northern slopes, which are not very suitable for other garden crops.
In hot, dry areas, currants are planted in partial shade, and the soil is mulched with sawdust to preserve moisture.
Vigorous - a self-fertile variety that does not need pollinators. Although with the joint planting of several varieties, a slight increase in yield is also possible for Yadrenoy.
Contrary to popular superstition, several currant bushes of other varieties growing nearby will not affect the taste of the berries or their size.
According to some gardeners, blackcurrant has a very adverse effect on cherries and cherries growing nearby, so plant them better away from each other. The neighborhood with elderberry and catnip (catnip), which repels a butterfly fire-light, a dangerous pest of currants, is useful.
Kotovnik (catnip) - a plant with a lemon aroma that repels flaming butterflies harmful to the currant
It is necessary to plant the plant in the fall, 2-3 weeks before the onset of steady colds. During spring planting, currants take root very poorly and are sick for a long time.
The best seedlings are annuals, with 2-3 branches and dense branched roots. If the bushes have an open root system, they are kept in a bag with moist soil or at least wrapped in a wet rag before planting.
When planting, they do not put lime, or mineral fertilizers, or fresh manure, so as not to burn the roots of seedlings.
Good currant seedlings have healthy leaves and branched roots
In a well-cultivated area with fertile soil, a small hole is enough for the plant, enough to accommodate the roots and 0.5 buckets of humus. When planting on a barren wasteland, dig holes up to half a meter deep and wide, adding 2 buckets of humus or compost to each. If you want to plant just a couple of bushes, you can dig holes just before work on the site. During industrial planting, they dig in advance due to the large volume of work. The minimum distance between the bushes in a row is 1 meter. The distance between the rows depends on the equipment used, but not less than 2 meters.
Seedlings during planting are arranged obliquely, deepening the root neck 5-8 cm below the soil level
The procedure for landing:
- Dig a hole of a suitable size.
- Mix the earth from it with humus.
- Pour a small mound of this mixture to the bottom of the fossa.
- Tilt the seedling at an angle of 45 °, placing the root neck 5-8 cm below the soil surface.
- Spread the roots of the seedling.
- Gently cover the remaining ground.
- Gently pour a bucket of water from the watering can with a nozzle under the seedling, without eroding the soil.
- Immediately after planting, shortly cut off all the branches of the seedling, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch above the ground.
Plant care
Currants have a superficial root system, which is easily damaged by digging and loosening and suffers greatly with a lack of moisture. Therefore, it is advisable to mulch the soil under the bushes with any improvised material. On productive plantations it is convenient to cover the aisles with roofing material or black film, this eliminates both soil cultivation and weeds.
Well-groomed currant plantation: bushes are thinned in a timely manner, the ground under them is mulched with humus, the aisles are covered with a black film
In summer cottages, where not only the crop is important, but also the beautiful view, this option is optimal:
- Each bush is outlined in a circle with a diameter of 60-80 cm. If desired, you can fence it with bricks or stones. Within this circle, the earth is mulched with a thick layer of wood chips, sawdust, nutshells, straw or simply mowed grass and dried, weathered ground.
- The entire space between the currant circles is occupied by a wild meadow lawn, which is regularly mowed by a mower, trimmer or just a sickle. Mowed grass is left in place or stacked under currants.
- In the spring, mulch from under the bush is neatly raked on the litter. A bucket of humus or good compost is poured under each plant and leveled, after which the mulch returns to its place. If necessary, add a fresh layer of covering material. It is never necessary to completely replace organic mulch, it gradually rots on the spot and itself becomes an excellent fertilizer. In extreme cases, with a lack of humus, you can add 30-40 g of nitroammophoska under each bush, but the results will be worse.
If you are not a professional practicing agronomist, forget about the foliar feeding of currants with mineral fertilizers, mullein and chicken droppings forever. For insufficiently experienced gardeners, the result is one and only: burnt leaves or roots, ruined plants.
Herb mulch under currants: practical and environmentally friendly
Regarding the alleged "incompatibility" of currants and lawns: we can not only allow the formation of turf directly under the bushes. A thick layer of grass (or any other) mulch prevents the growth of weeds, and immediately under the bushes, in the area where the main mass of currant roots is located, the soil remains loose and moist.
If for some reason you cannot or do not want to use mulching, the aisles can be cultivated. But for the soil right under the bushes there remains only manual loosening no deeper than 5-7 cm - a task very laborious and tedious. At the same time, the annual dose of fertilizers is increased by a quarter.
When watering, evenly moisten the entire area of the trunk circle
In dry weather, currants need watering, especially during the period from the end of flowering to the beginning of staining of berries. In the absence of rain, watered once a week in a bucket of water on the bush, evenly moistening the entire surface of the trunk circle. During the period of coloring the berries and before harvesting, it is better not to water, so that the fruits do not crack. After harvesting, watering continues until mid-August. In dry autumn after leaf fall, water-loading irrigation of three buckets of water per bush is desirable.
Currant planting care - video
Currant pruning
Blackcurrant is a short-lived plant. Even with regular anti-aging pruning, it makes no sense to keep bushes older than ten years old in the garden. In the Yadrenaya variety, they age especially quickly compared to many other varieties, and berries of record sizes are formed only on young branches and in young plants.
When pruning, old, diseased, broken, branches lying on the ground are removed
How to trim:
- The first pruning of currants is carried out immediately when a seedling is planted, when all the branches are shortened by 2-3 buds above the ground.
- In the first year after planting, several shoots develop from these buds. In the spring of the second year they are half cut.
- From the third year, pruning is carried out according to the general principle: 2-3 of the most powerful new basal shoots are left annually and 2-3 old ones are cut under the root. Slices are made at the level of the soil surface, without leaving stumps.
When cutting under the root, slices are made at the level of the soil, without leaving stumps
- First of all, they remove all dried up, broken and obviously sick. You can do this at any time. The frail tops of the shoots (drying out, damaged by pests) shorten to a healthy part.
- It is convenient to trim in two terms:
- in the spring, when all winter damage and mite-populated kidneys become noticeable;
- at the end of berry picking, when the yield of each branch and the strength of growth are clearly visible.
- If new basal shoots are formed more than necessary, the extra ones are cut out under the root. A properly formed adult bush consists of 10-12 branches of different ages.
- In adult bushes, old branches are cut that lie on the ground. A properly formed currant bush does not need any supports.
A properly formed powerful bush of currant does not need supports
Pests and diseases
The Kernel variety is resistant to the common grouse virus in Siberia, but suffers greatly from anthracnose. Regarding the kidney tick, the information is contradictory: initially the variety was resistant to this pest in its homeland, but when grown in the European part of the country, it is rather severely affected. Effective chemical measures do not exist against most currant parasites; therefore, timely regular inspection of plantings and mechanical destruction of pests are so important.
The main measures to protect currants from pests and diseases - table
| Title | How does it manifest | What to do with it |
| Aphid | Young leaves on the tops of the shoots are twisted and covered with small soft-bodied insects. | Pinch off the affected tops and destroy along with the aphid. |
| Glassmaker | A small butterfly with transparent wings, its caterpillars live and feed inside the shoots of currants, causing them to dry out. |
|
| Fire | A small gray-brown moth-like butterfly. Her caterpillars feed on berries, tightening their cobwebs. |
|
| Kidney tick | In spring, the mite-affected kidneys do not bloom, but are inflated with balls, like tiny heads of cabbage. |
|
| Terry | A dangerous viral disease that turns currant flowers into curly stars with narrow petals. | Uproot and burn diseased bushes. |
| Septoria | At the end of summer, dark spots with a clear white center appear on the leaves. |
|
| Anthracnose | Small brown specks appear on the leaves, heavily affected greens dry up and fall off. | |
| Ball rust | It only affects currants in close proximity to sedge marshes. In spring, yellowish tubercles appear on the leaves. With severe damage, the leaves and berries are deformed and fall off. | |
| Column rust | It affects currants only in close proximity to infected cedar pine trees (Siberian cedar). In summer, yellow spots appear on the leaves, a little later their lower side is covered with a reddish coating |
Pests and diseases of currant - photo gallery
- The aphids of shoots with twisted leaves populated by aphids must be pinched and destroyed
- Currant glass-case - a small butterfly with transparent wings
- Glass-caterpillars live inside currant branches, causing them to dry out
- Currant mousse - a small, inconspicuous butterfly, similar to a moth
- Fire-tree caterpillars feed on currant berries, tightening them with cobwebs
- The currant buds affected by the tick are inflated with balls, the leaves do not bloom
- Currant terry is an incurable viral disease
- With septoria, spots with a white center appear on the leaves
- When severely affected by anthracnose, the leaves dry and fall
- Stem rust affects currants in close proximity to sedge marshes
- Column rust - a common disease of currant and cedar pine (Siberian cedar)
Gardeners reviews about the variety Yadrenaya
I said goodbye to this grade. The berry is large, but it ripens very unevenly in the brush, if you wait for full ripening, then the first will crumble. Yes, and the taste is mediocre.
Nab//forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=7873
Inequality in some way +, if for myself, for compotes. When compared with Selechenskaya-2, the Yadrennaya has a pronounced currant flavor and sour. It’ll roll for processing, and for me it ripens before everyone else. But friends, coming to visit, are surprised at the size.
Stirlitz//forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=7873
By berry - the largest. Tasteless berry is a fact. But the yield is good. Trim all biennial shoots. Last year - it gives a good harvest of large and fairly one-dimensional berries. The big drawback is the lodging of the shoots loaded with the crop. The transportability of berries also wants the best.
Sergey Protsenko//forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?s=47ea6a9e2cad5b3febe6b46f25ea902b&t=7873&page=2
This year, with a terrible spring, when frost fell at the open buds at -11, the Yadrenaya variety proved to be a reliable worker.Some varieties did not even bloom, and this variety is simply strewn with flowers. So I can recommend it to the north. Very pleased with her.
CTU//forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?s=47ea6a9e2cad5b3febe6b46f25ea902b&t=7873&page=2
Variety Yadrenaya has already outlived itself. He became very affected by the tick and the rate of colonization by them is 1-2 years. In addition to being hit by a tick, the Nucleus has degeneration properties, that is, sometimes the shoot grows with berries of very small size and gradually the bush degenerates.
Victor Bratkin//forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=5155&start=30
Despite the shortcomings, the Yadrenaya variety will be popular among gardeners for a long time to come. Its sour aromatic berries are perfect for freezing and processing, and its endurance to heat and cold allows you to grow this variety in regions with not very favorable conditions for gardening.
